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3/12/2013 6:43 am  #1

Inline Chassis Question

Im kinda new to running the inline chassis and i have 2 that run good and 2 others that if the glue is not perfect all they do is hop on launch. I have 2 slick 7 python chassis one is built out of .062 wire with 5inch wheelie bars and this car runs perfect very little glue and never any hopping. The second one is built with .072 stainless tube and 4 1/2in bars and this one gives me nothing but issues. Its built for an EMM/ps class we are starting using a s16d i am starting to think that either the chassis is to stiff with the tube or the wheelie bars are to short for this chassis. Am i possibly thinking correctly or should i be looking else where?



3/12/2013 9:18 pm  #2

Re: Inline Chassis Question

Check to make sure that your tires are the same height, first....  Really critical on an inline car.  The S7 Python is a great chassis.  It can take pretty much everything that I throw at it.  Check to make sure that there are no busted solder joints. 
Could be too stiff, but I have run .082 tube and no problems.  How is the body mounted?  Difference in mount?  On my S7 car, I don't run too much rear float.  The S16d won't make too much power stock, that could a problem also.  The chassis may be loading and unloading (flexing and rebounding too fast due to not enough power to carry the car out, glue keeps the car "stuck", so you won't notice the hop.  Well, at least that's what happens to my stuff....).  If I have that problem, I will run a down bar from the motor plate to near the nose.  If it works, you can either leave it or re-rail it with wire....


3/13/2013 1:31 am  #3

Re: Inline Chassis Question

agreed with Gary the python is a great chassis
I used .072* tube on mine but i also made quite a few changes to the chassis http://bracket500.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=2067
most of my lower power cars run better with a tire size that allows a little more tire slip so less glue to no glue, as Gary mentions chassis is real impotant on all cars but lower power can some times use slightly longer or thicker wheelie bars to good effect ,check your chassis is square across the diagonals and that its also dead flat

Last edited by novaz (3/13/2013 1:34 am)

Just enjoying Life and Slots

3/13/2013 4:12 am  #4

Re: Inline Chassis Question

Thanks for your info guys.

Gary i have the body pinned in the front about where the door starts so the pin tubing is on the chassis rail and the rear of the body is pinned and floating. I went ahead and re did the chassis last nigh and used .062 wire and made the bars longer just under 5 inch. The only differences between the 2 chassis at this point is weight and body mount i have the body on my other s7 python mounted on the front tabs next to the guide shoe. if the new railing doesnt work ill try the down bar you suggested.

I looked at your thread yesterday acutally when i was looking for some info what you have there in your pic is pretty much how mine is i cut the front tabs off of mine trying to get the weight down. im going to double check the flatness and everything tonight. as for tires im running a set of jds 1 3/16 by .500 cut down to 1 1/16

     Thread Starter

3/13/2013 4:52 am  #5

Re: Inline Chassis Question

You need to make front mount in the nose pinning that far back will bind the body. I have 2 econo cars that are built with .078 wire and they run perfect and have been in the .920s on nuimerous occassions.


3/13/2013 5:13 am  #6

Re: Inline Chassis Question

never thought about it doing that but no that you mention it, it makes sense and is probably my whole problem.

     Thread Starter

7/08/2019 8:19 am  #7

Re: Inline Chassis Question

searching woulda found you a few threads and others with sub frame conecttor set ups

and why 2 posts with the same thing ? only needed 1


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