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11/23/2013 5:49 pm  #1


Question regarding gearing

Hi guys, just bought a new slip joint chassis off of eBay. Just shy of 10 1/4" wheelbase, WRP motor box, weighs in at 27.1g. I'm planning on a "out of the bag" Proslot S16D. The car will be run on 1/4mi track, 16.2v with caps.

This is my first rail, what's a good starting point on gear selection? I was thinking mebbe 10/56?

Thanks!

 


They gave their tomorrows, for your today.
 

11/23/2013 8:38 pm  #2


Re: Question regarding gearing

Juggler. Depends on size tires, I run the small, narrow tires with a 15-6/48-50 gears,
Another racer run a tall tire .400 wide tire and gears his at 10/60. with some glue.....
Also glue comes into play, I run mine with no glue on the track or on the tires.

Try different combos and see what works for you.
  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
 

11/23/2013 10:07 pm  #3


Re: Question regarding gearing

Well, I'm looking for a low maintenance car that'll run "low to no" glue. The car will be used mainly for brkt racing, or if it's consistent enough, index racing. So I think I'll try your gearing, large pinion and 48/50 crown. I was thinking of the short narrow tire too, something that'll cut through the glue fairly well. 

Thanks!

Now I gotta figure out how to "pin" the body to the chassis!  http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/happy.png


They gave their tomorrows, for your today.
     Thread Starter
 

11/24/2013 4:47 am  #4


Re: Question regarding gearing

I had two slip joints at one time and fastened the bodies by holding the nose down with Velcro .the rear mount was a piece of 1/4" brass tubing squashed to an oval shape then pin tubing put inside it , allowed the chassis to flex very freely ..biggest draw back was the short pins ,easy to loose- impossiable to find after you dropped them or they end up inside the motor http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/worried.png
 DVans gearing sounds right and if you look at the dragsters the Detroit guys run in bracket all use small , narrow tires an are extreamly consistant(does not hurt they cut .00# lights either) small adjustments to the guide and hinge point weight can also make a diffrence on how the slip joint hooks uphttp://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/wink.png
the best part is the fun of testing an fiquring it outhttp://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/smile.png
http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/sleep.png

 

11/24/2013 7:35 am  #5


Re: Question regarding gearing

Juggler. Mounting: the way I did mine is, pin tubbing near the front guide and two stacked on the hinge.
It seems the chassis works best if the body is mounted on the front part of the hinge, so the body doesn't bind the chassis from flexing. We've run anywhere from 0-14 grams on the tongue to 7-14 on the plate in front of the hinge.

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
 

11/24/2013 9:34 am  #6


Re: Question regarding gearing

Picture of double pin tubbing for pins.

DVan

http://bracket500.com/mb/sjpin2.jpg


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
 

11/24/2013 9:37 pm  #7


Re: Question regarding gearing

Thanks guys! Those tips really help eliminate most of my concerns. And of course, pics are worth a thosand words! http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/smile.png
I'm going to add a plate in front of the hinge, as mine dosent have one there. I'll add the rear body mount tube there too, to elimiate binding the body when the chassis flex's. I was wondering about that too, since you mentioned it, and it seems so obvious!


They gave their tomorrows, for your today.
     Thread Starter
 

3/11/2014 11:04 am  #8


Re: Question regarding gearing

Hi guys, just a FYI on my slipjoint project... I used as many parts out of my used parts box as possible, so while maybe not ideal, they were "free", so to speak. I used new Pro Track 1 1/16 x .300 rears, 10T pinion, 56T crown, and a roughly 20 year old Mura grp12 left over from my road race days. The motor could use a re-zapping, but has powered the car to many 1.080 passes. Seems fairly consistant in this trim, so I may leave it this way for awhile as I pursue other projects. It does have roughly 12gr of lead spread over guide shoe area and around the hinge. I still have to cut the body down (heighth-wise) because I left it full heighth while I was adjusting the weights and guide wires. The car uses little to no glue, and is probably my favorite car to run. I'd post pics, but don't have any at the moment.


They gave their tomorrows, for your today.
     Thread Starter
 

3/12/2014 3:18 pm  #9


Re: Question regarding gearing

Forgot, since the guide shoe dosent move left or right, I used 14gauge stranded copper utility wire for the guide wire. Changing the motor is not a problem.


They gave their tomorrows, for your today.
     Thread Starter
 

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