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8/10/2013 12:37 am  #1

Parma Holeshot chassis build.

Hi guys...
I brought my first ever chassis to build today,  can you give me any tips? Also can you recommend any jigs to help?

Cheers Doc


8/10/2013 8:06 am  #2

Re: Parma Holeshot chassis build.

Find a builder at your local track who is willing to sit down with you 
ask questions 
measure twice cut once 
ask questions
a steel rule and a good soldering arm 
ask questions
think about what your doing before doing it 
ask questions
take your time 
ask questions
use good parts
ask questions
all the best and
ask questions

Last edited by novaz (8/10/2013 8:07 am)

Just enjoying Life and Slots

8/10/2013 2:26 pm  #3

Re: Parma Holeshot chassis build.

Thanks Roz

thats a little hard as no one races drag cars at my track.

Does anyone have any pictures of the bracing they put on their holeshot that worked?

     Thread Starter

10/06/2013 4:41 am  #4

Re: Parma Holeshot chassis build.

 I hope by now you've made some progress.
 Just don't give up. Soldering takes practice to learn. Biggest problem I've seen is not enough heat or not enough flux. I use acid myself. One tip here is to wash the joint any where it may have gotten wet with acid as soon as you're finished with that joint!!! The Holeshot chassis doesn't use Stainless Steel But when you do use it in the future, it needs to be really scuffed up where your solder is to stick!
 A jig is a real help. Can't remember the name of the company that makes the really nice but expensive jigs- Precision something or Something precision... But they are made for specific frames and because they are, they make it that much faster and easier to build. I use a couple of different jigs. One a custom jig and the other is a Lucky Bob's. The more you build the more you will learn. Each jig has it's good and bad points. It becomes a matter of watching what you are doing and reacting to what you see and learn. My first drag car I built was from a Parma Holeshot kit. This was after building scratch built wing cars for years! Still have that car today! One thing I learned that could be of some help to anyone that wants to build one of these kits is to use the piano wire that comes in the 3 foot long length. For some reason the shorter length wire is much more brittle!!!  I never put in an upper member from the back of the frame down to the wheelie wheels like you see on other cars. That will help make your car more predictable. Don't think it was even a suggestion in the instructions back then. I just know what to expect out of this car as it is and have gotten to sort of like the challenge of it as is. Also makes it easier to adjust for different tracks! I've had a mild Gp20 motor in mine most of this cars life. With only .300" wide rear tires. NOT a car set up for a beginner! But has been very smooth and never come out of the slot. I know most people would sooner or later add bracing here or there... But I have had little to no bad problems surprisingly with building my kit the way it was stated in the instructions other than the substuttion of the piano wire!


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