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3/03/2011 2:32 pm  #1


Slip joint chassis 101

Here's a how to make your own slip joint chassis 101.
It's the basic of what it takes to make one.

http://bracket500.com/links/sj/sj.html

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
 

3/04/2011 8:03 am  #2


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Marty for this project I used 1/16 piano wire and 3/32 for the brass tubing.
I don't know if that's a common size....

   DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

3/25/2011 7:25 am  #3


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Jones I will be testing one this evening, it's a D-Can with a 12 arm, sorry I didn't reply sooner.

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

3/25/2011 7:57 am  #4


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Bill the idea of a slip joint from what I understand is: No glue or wheelie bars, once I run this one I'll do a little bit more on the write up.
I don't know if length is a factor.

I've seen these for a long time but always got side tracked so now I get to try one, so let's see how it does.

I have no clue as to what motors or gearing, wheels and tires.... Maybe someone that runs one could let us know...

   DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

3/25/2011 11:03 am  #5


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

door slamer slip joint project..... Joining at the piviot point made the car worse could not launch at all, without the guide coming out of the track,most said I have to go with stiffer rods but then I would have to add more weight to keep the guide in the slot....my thought are letting the guide drop easier and a little more weight on the front of the body, any one has thoughts on this feel free to comment ...Should maybe have DVan transfer this to the Chassis Section..... Next step changed the flex rod from .057 piano wire to .045 Piano wire more and smoother flex ,changed guide angle from 2 degrees front up to 5 degress front up allowing for it to set flat if the front rises 1 inch ,and changed wieght, removed 8 Grams from the front guide arm leaving a 4 gram hunk there and placed the 8 grams  on the body frame just behind the front wheels will leave the two connected at the pivot point. will see what happend Friday night...

Last edited by davidRevans (3/28/2011 9:08 am)

 

3/31/2011 1:36 pm  #6


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Final update:

             http://bracket500.com/links/sj/sj12.jpg

             See how to make this car, click link below.


             http://bracket500.com/links/sj/sj.html


  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

3/31/2011 2:24 pm  #7


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Thats very cool Dvan 
I am assuming it needs little if any glue what kind of motor are you using

Royz


Just enjoying Life and Slots
 

3/31/2011 3:07 pm  #8


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Nova, the theory behind a slip joint is no glue or wheelie wheels.
So we shall see what this one does, I'm trying a group 20 motor.

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

3/31/2011 10:48 pm  #9


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

DVan wrote:

Nova, the theory behind a slip joint is no glue or wheelie wheels.
So we shall see what this one does, I'm trying a group 20 motor.

  DVan

cool i am very interested in the slip chassis theory look forward to some results
Royz


Just enjoying Life and Slots
 

4/03/2011 9:47 pm  #10


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Looks good D.    This build inspired me to play with my swingarm dragster again.  Last night after sitting for about 4 months, changed the braids, skimmed the tires on the tire truer, oiled it up and it ran 8 passes between .982 - .990.   The car weighs 118g, 3 grams on the nose, 7 grams at the pivot point.  Works the best with no glue on the track.  Motor is a Pro Slot big block 20, geared 11/56.

 

4/07/2011 9:07 pm  #11


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

1 1/16 x .300 Pro Tracks.

 

4/08/2011 10:56 am  #12


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

run the same combination , tried 10-60? getting same times as gary lot of glur down the track will bog it down to 1.032

 

4/09/2011 8:15 pm  #13


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Gary does yours go through braids? We had one guy there today and he had to just about change them every run... Too much arching, how can we get it to settle down?


  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

4/10/2011 3:47 pm  #14


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Not really....  If the car is eating the braid, it may be hooking up too hard and pulling the braid away from the track.  I change my braid about twice a year.  I really don't mess with my bracket / index cars too much once I get them close.  I will post some pics in a few minutes on how I limit the movement of the chassis.  It's not pretty, but I can tune from track to track....

 

4/10/2011 4:32 pm  #15


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Last night, the dragster won .990 index running .992 and 1.034 lifting, then went to the quarters in brackets running .994, .996, .992 and then I redlit....    Anyways, out of 5 passes, throwing out the 1 pass that I lifted, it varied .004.  Not too bad, this car lives in the .990's and if I would concentrate on racing instead of trying to solve the world's mysteries,  I might be a hitter..... 

Anyways, the dragster was a little inconsistent at first.  It would slap the track, arc the braid and then spin the tires.  Hmmm....  What to do.....  Well, digging around in my box, I found 2 tiny zipties.  Why they were there, I don't know....  Anyway, I figured that I needed to limit the amount of flex to at least keep the car from yanking the nose up out of the groove.  Soldering would have worked too, but I figured that if I was wrong, I could take them off and try something else.  I started with the zipties in the middle between the pivot point and the motor.  Good guess.  It limited the flex and the car became raceable.

Sorry about the pics, they're from my camera phone.... 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f181/67vwracer/slipjointdragster4.jpg


This is how much it flexes without the limiter....

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f181/67vwracer/slipjointdragster3.jpg


I can slide the zipties back and forth to tune for different track surfaces, forward = less movement, back = more movement.
I also have 3 grams of weight on the nose, 3 grams about halfway between the pivot point and the nose and 7 grams at the pivot point.  Hope this helps.... 

 

4/10/2011 4:59 pm  #16


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Gary.
I've told a local that we need to work on the amount of upward travel and you just verified what I was talking about.
I figured if the arc in the chassis goes too high then the car doesn't really hook up at the start line, I just didn't know how to set it up like you did. (looking for zip ties...     )
And that should also solve the arching of the braids.

Thanks for the help.
   DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

4/10/2011 6:19 pm  #17


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Gary one more question, the length of the chassis also plays a role to where you would put the zip tie as well as motor, right?

DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

4/10/2011 6:49 pm  #18


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

I would assume so....  I think that a short chassis wouldn't flex as much as a longer one.  I just took a guess at roughly the middle and got lucky and it worked there....  That's the cool thing about the zip ties.  You tighten them up without binding or limiting the movement of the rails and you can slide them to find the right spot.  You would just have to make a short squirt and be able to tell pretty quickly.  I mark the rails with a dab of fingernail polish (don't tell my daughter that I've been stealing her nail polish...  ) so I know where the ties are supposed to be in casse I accidently move them.

 

4/15/2011 7:44 pm  #19


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

We ran that class tonight, slip joint chassis,
I built 4 of the 5 chassis we ran.
Fastest run tonight was Uncle Gary with the Oaktown Stripper. 1.000

Race winner  DVan
    2nd place  EricM

Gary since we did add the zip ties, all the dragsters ran a whole lot better, thanks for the tip. Most dragsters ran in the 1000s...

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

4/15/2011 10:29 pm  #20


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Very cool D and congratulations on the win and to Eric on the runner-up!!   

Glad that it helped you guys out!  Nothing is better than hearing that a tip may have helped someone out! 

 

4/16/2011 6:13 am  #21


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Gary thanks. I did let EricM get 2nd place.... OOooppss never mind I won!!!

Marty, I'm still working on the shortwheel based one, I'll keep you posted.
These chassis were all .62 piano wire, the short wheelbased one the main rails
are .62 and the sliders are .55

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

5/07/2011 4:57 am  #22


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Bill when i built mine I first made a bend for one side(a little longer to be trimed later) then slid the tubing over the wire , grabed the wire close to the tubing with vice grips and made the other bend, even the .72 piano wire I used will bend easy enough with out having to hold the brass tube hard enough to deform it, just hold with your hand with some pliers or clamp in a vice lightly

 

5/07/2011 5:20 am  #23


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Bill, I use a pair of pliers, I make my first bend in a 45, then I add the piece of brass tubing, then I take the pliers to hold the brass tubing and make the second bend.
All the piano wire I use is .062

Tip: the front (where the guide plate goes onto) piece is 7" inches long and the back end (where the motor mounts goes onto) is 4" for a total lenght of 11" from the center of the guide to the center of the rear axle. We've tested the brass hindge on both the front and/or the rear, it doesn't matter on which side it's on.

  DVan


"Where legends are made and records are broken".
     Thread Starter
 

5/08/2011 4:44 am  #24


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Marty wrote:

What is the most common wire size used?

Most use .062 main rails and .055 for the spring wire.  Big Block 20's run great in these rails.  I have been .940's with mine geared wrong.  will go faster.  And No GLUE!!!!!!!!!

 

5/08/2011 7:01 am  #25


Re: Slip joint chassis 101

Have to agree with Stretch ,the slip- joint dragster is the only chassis my Big Block 20 seems to like ,I build it to heavy but when you can pull almost all the weights off and still have it not burning braids and breaking loose down track.mine wight 130 grams at start now down to 116 grams     I tried removing all from the pivot point and started to arc braids so cut a 7 gram chunk in half and put it back, faster down track and Et more consistant....

Last edited by davidRevans (5/08/2011 7:18 pm)

 

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